Gear: Tender

Our Tender Requirements

Zar Mini HDL13

When it comes to a Tender or Dinghy, everyone is looking for something specifically tailored to their individual needs... and we are no different.  Here are our requirements when looking at a tender or dinghy, the 'car' for your boat.

  1. Low Weight - On a cat, weight always matters. Due to this, we won't be going with a hydraulic platform (as much as we would like to) because most of them cannot lift our dinghy choices!  Plus, if we choose a light enough dinghy, we can drag it on shore.
  2. More Passengers - With S/V Lynx carrying a larger crew than a typical boat, we need a tender that can handle a large crew.  This is based on its load carrying capacity and/or rating for persons on board.  We will need to ferry at least seven people at times.
  3. Durability - The hull has to withstand beaching and the tube material must resist UV light.
  4. Hull Shape - Deep V or moderate V.  If we want a smoother ride in rough waves we need a higher dead rise with a deep V hull yet you plain faster with a moderate V.  However, we are leaning toward a Deep V.
  5. Tube Diameter - The larger the diameter, the better for a drier ride.  We don't like getting wet, either from our butts hanging over the edge of a pontoon and getting splashed or due to spray from wave impacts dousing our entire bodies on our way to shore for a nice dinner. 
  6. Length - This matters because we have to fit this between our cat hulls, and 13' 9" is about the maximum width without encroaching on the sugar scoops. Therefore, we need a dinghy length of 13' or less.  Ideally, the length would be 12'6" or smaller.
  7. Load capacity - We are scuba divers, so we need a boat that will handle all our gear and multiple divers and still get on a plain.
  8. Price - Money is not unlimited, so this is a serious factor we have to consider.

Hull Types

When it comes to hulls on a Tender or Dinghy, there are two options, Fiberglass or Aluminum.  Here are our thoughts on which is the best hull matieral for our needs.  We have five areas of comparison:

  • WEIGHT - First off, many claim that aluminum RIBs are lighter... and we have found this to be generally true.  Therefore, all the RIBS on our list of contenders have aluminum hulls.
  • DURABILITY - Next up is durability. If you plan on running your tender up onto shores covered with rocks, then the aluminum hull is your best bet as it is more scratch resistant and will tend to dent rather than fracture.  However, there have been issues of aluminum hull welds cracking over time with the flexing of the boat, where fiberglass is more forgiving in this area.   Also, even though aluminum hulls are tougher against scratches, if you do get a scratch in your fiberglass boat, you can easily mix up some fiberglass and do a repair.   Fixing any serious issue with an aluminum hull is far more difficult. 
  • CORROSION - This is more likely on an aluminum hull.  You can have one powder coated or painted, but then you risk bubbling of the paint.  Some owners have reported this issue while others have no problems at all.  Many people suggest a bare aluminum hull as the best bet.   However, as one RIB maker states on their website, "Aluminum requires very little maintenance other than keeping salt off to protect the hull from corrosion."  I guess the issue here is that we are going to be in salt water... constantly.    Fiberglass would have less issues with corrosion.
  • SHAPE - Fiberglass boats can have a more polished and contoured hulls since fiberglass can be made in any shape where Aluminum has some limitations and tend to stick to a somewhat flat sided shape, with small ridges (see pics below).
  • NOISE -Aluminum hulls are nosier, where fiberglass is easier on the ears. 


Alum Hull


Our Conclusion on Hull Material

Though fiberglass hulls seem to have a lot going for them, in the end, we just couldn't get past the better durability of the aluminum hulls for beaching.  We don't want to be doing constant repairs on fiberglass, so we decided to go with an aluminum hull.  Therefore, in the comparisons (below) all of the contenders have aluminum hulls.

Comparisons of Models

Zar Mini Rib, Model 13 HDL

The ZAR Mini is a twin deck aluminum hull boat with a double bow locker. She is 12'6" long, has a tube diameter of 18" and weights in at 201 lbs. She is rated for seven passengers, and has a payload of 1521 lbs. These are all excellent numbers for S/V Lynx!

Her main competitors will be the North Atlantic and Highfield CL 380.  It isn't the lightest boat on our list, in fact, the ZAR loses in weight to the Cadet by 38 lbs.  In fact, just comparing to the Cadate, the Zar wins in tube diameter by 2" (which is significant). The Zar also wins in payload by 103 lbs.   Her length is five inches shorter than the Cadet, making her a bit easier between the sugar scoops, however, she is 11" wider, at 6'5", which is desirable. Finally, by price, she costs $6344.00, losing to the Cadet by $852.00. Therefore, the real question is, do we want to spend an extra $852 to get a larger payload, wider beam, and larger tube diameter, yet a bit heavier boat? It's a close call, but we are leaning toward the ZAR Mini 13 HDL or her two main contenders (the next two boats below).

Zar Mini

North Atlantic, Model ALA380

Next is the 12' 8" inflatable from North Atlantic. She is a light weight boat at 175 pounds even though she has twin decks and a deep V hull. This boat is listed as a 6 passenger boat. She has 18" tubes, so that's a plus. The load carrying capacity is good at 1550 lbs. Max hp for the outboard is 30 hp, so that works for our electric 20 hp outboard.

The ALA380 compares well against the ZAR Mini and comes in at a great price, under $5,000.  That makes the ALA380 one of the best priced boats we are considering.  Her only real negative is that this isn't a major boat name, like Highfield or ZAR, hence, the lower price.

Still, at this low price, we have to consider the boat. 

North Atlantic

Highfield, Model CL 380

Like her smaller sister, the CL360 (see next entry), she is still a light boat at 183 lbs, but 8" longer than the CL360. The beam is 2" wider than her sister boat, coming in at 5'8" and the weight capacity is more at 1404 lbs. The hull is the same with a dead rise of 15 degrees with a moderate V hull. And, the maximum size motor is also 30 hp.

So, what makes either Highfield Classics so desirable? Well, like the ZAR, NA, and Zodiac, it all has to do with the weight.  If we go with this much lighter boat, it opens up the possibility to use an electric vs a gas outboard. That means, we don't have to store flammable gas on board the main catamaran and we can refill our fuel (batteries) off our solar panels. (More on this, in Electric Propulsion, below) and share them with the main catamaran when needed.

The price is fair; the CL 380 runs $7,214.  However, there are less expensive options, like the ZAR Mini, or even better the NA ALA380.

Still, this boat is one of the top contenders.

Highfield CL380

Highfield, CL 360

By going down to a bit in length, we can save a little weight and money over the CL 380.  Besides shedding 18 lbs over the CL 380, the price also drops by about $600.  At 165 lbs, she is only 2 lbs heavier than the lightest boat on our list, the Zodiac Cadet.  However, she comes with 17" tubes, where the Cadet is only 16". She is the same width, 5'6". The problem with this smaller boat is that she is only rated for six passengers, with smaller a payload of 1237 lbs.

The main advantages are her weight and shorter length for an easier fit between the sugar scoops.
This is a decent boat, just a bit light on the load carrying capacity.

Highfield CL360

Zodiac, Model Cadet 390 DL RIB NEO

The Zodiac Cadet is the lightest twin deck aluminum hull boat we have found, coming in at 163 lbs, that's 2 lbs lighter than the closest competitor we have found, the CL 360, from Highfield.

It is rated to seven passengers.   If the Cadet has a downside, it is the 16" tubes, where the CL 360 or 380 have 17" tubes and the ZAR an NA have 18" tubes.  The Cadet also has a smaller payload and will be a little less stable and wetter ride.  The max payload is 1418, a little less than the CL380 by 103 lbs. Her length is also slightly worse for fitting between the sugar scoops, though the CL380 is only five inches shorter. Anything under 13' is fine.

Like the Highfields and Zar Mini, this boat also includes a double forward storage locker.  Another big plus is that her tubes slide off the hull in case they ever need to be replaced (unique to Zodiac boats).
The hull is a medium V, so good for plaining, but not our desired Deep-V.

The lighter weight really make this boat interesting for us, as does her low price. This would make an excellent electric propulsion boat!  The maximum size outboard is a 30 hp, so the 20 hp Stealth electric outboard would work fine.  The total weight of this boat, with the Stealth electric propulsion is 467 lbs. With the Spirit 1.0 plus (for beaching) this seven person, nearly 13' tender only weighs 207 lbs!  However, those small tubes are an issue. 


Point Comparison Chart

We assigned a point value to each feature based on their importance to us.  This allows us to get a quick comparison of the tenders we are interested in possibly buying.  They are listed by order of their total points, best at the top.  That means our first choice is the first line, and then they go in descending order.

Tenders Weight Pts People Pts Hull PtsTubes PtsLength Pts Load Pts Price Pts Total
Zar Mini2011675Deep-V718"1212'6"71512_lbs.8$6,3441671
Showing entries (filtered from total entries)

Our Conclusion on Tenders

Scores and numbers aren't everything.  In the end, we must also like the boat, and that comes from some of the smaller things, like builder reputation, storage, space, quality, materials, etc.  Other factor contributing to our choice is that our tender is a light enough boat to beach if we remove the battery and larger motor and mount a Spirit 1.0 Plus, which is light weight (but slow). Tube width and beam are also important to us, as is the length. We also want a light enough boat to be electric. Price also figures in as well.

The ZAR Mini turns out to be the best compromise of all these elements, just nudging out the Atlantic ALA380 and the CL380. We will pare it with an electric 20 hp motor and LifePO4 batteries in waterproof cases. Then, we'll add a Spirit 1.0 Plus as a backup motor (see below).  As for which Electric Outboard, that's up next.

Zar Mini



The first choice to make is a gas powered outboard or Electric

There are advantages and disadvantages to both choices, as follows:


  • Gas outboards - They are faster and lighter and have a greater range on a single excursion.  They are less expensive to purchase than electric outboards.
  • Electric outboards - They require no gas stored on the tender or main boat and have endless numbers of excursions.  They make no fumes and are quieter.  They start without pulling, and do so, every time, and require no warm up time.  They are lighter on the stern of the tender (battery weight can be moved forward).  There is less weight on the main boat since we don't have to store flammable gasoline.  They have high torque at any RPM, helping for to get the tender on a plain.  We can swap out to a smaller electric outboard for beach landings.  Our remaining range can be monitored from a cell phone.


  • Gas outboards - They can have trouble starting, require far more maintenance, have flammable fuel, require trips to find gas to refill.  Have a limited number of excursions before running out of fuel.
  • Electric outboards - Lower horsepower.  With the batteries, they are heavier.  Limited in range on a single excursion if you desire to 'go fast' (slowing down extends range significantly).  Price!  They are far more expensive (when you add in the batteries) than gas outboards.

Our choice between Gas & Electric Outboards

In the end, this was an easy choice.  It came down to having to deal with all the hassles of procuring gas, storing a flammable fuel on the main boat, smelling nasty fumes, doing less maintenance, and having endless excursions without running of of fuel in remote locations.  Electric won, hands down.  Because of all these advantages, we are willing to pay the extra money to get an Electric Outboard system. 

Below are some of the electric outboard options:


Stealth E18KW

* 18 kW continuous power
* Plane a boat that weighs 1,500 lbs. (our boat with electric system weighs 495 lbs.)
* Remote steering connector option, comes with remote throttle.
* 23 hp gas equivalent
* 96 volt
* Weight 84 lbs.
* Speeds up to around 15 mph for at least an hour (on a 1,500 lb boat with the system and 2 people).
* Yamaha lower leg for easy part replacement.
* Water cooled.
* Motor Only price: $4,800

NOTE: It is likely we will not use the Stealth NMC batteries due to their chemistry and go with cheaper and safer DIY LifePO4 batteries. The LifePO4 battery banks will cost us about $2,000, with a few extras, this comes out more than $2,000 less than the original Stealth package, and 15ah extra power. The motor only weighs 84 lbs. and the 135ah 48v LifePO4 safer battery packs each weigh 105 lbs. (case included). We need two to get to 96v so that means we need two in series, so the total weight for the batteries is 210 lbs. That, plus the motor and tender weighs 495 lbs. and our lift system is good for up to 500 lbs. with our davits. As for cost, this will run us about $3,600 for the two batteries and $4,800 for the motor. All total, that is $8,400. For an electric propulsion system.  That is an excellent price for going electric, though about double what a gas outboard would cost.  However, this is a win/win/win situation with the safety of our LifePO4 batteries, the low weight of 495 lbs. for the entire boat, and a decent price of $8,400.  Note that we will save money on fuel over the years, making up some of that extra $4,000 initial cost.


Stealth E36KW

*  *36 kW continuous power
* Plane a boat that weighs 2,000 lbs.
* Remote steering connector option, comes with remote throttle.
* 45 hp gas equivalent
* 144 volt
* Weight 178 lbs.
* Speeds up to around 25 mph for at least an hour.
* Yamaha lower leg for easy part replacement.
* Water cooled.
* Motor Only price: $8,799 

NOTE: Currently, we would not use the Stealth batteries due to their chemistry and go with safer LifePO4 batteries. The LifePO4 battery banks will cost us about $1,700 (each). The issue is weight. These batteries would weigh in at 105 lbs. each and to get to 144v at 135ah it would take three packs. That weighs 315 lbs., plus the motor at 178 lbs. is a total of 493 lbs. Add that to the 201 lb. ZAR Mini RIB and you get 694 lbs. That is about 200 lbs. more than we want for our davit lift system!  Hence, we have to rule this out unless lighter batteries become available and we are talking 200 lbs. lighter!  Now, if we decided to go with the NMC batteries from Stealth, which weight 70 lbs. each, three would equal 210 lbs. That gets us close, 388 lbs. for motor and batteries, plus 201 for the RIB is 589 lbs. It's still a bit heavy, since our target weight is 500 lbs.

Torqueedo 10.0 R

Torqueedo 10.0 R

* 12 kW peak power, 10 kW continuous power – powerful propulsion like a 20 hp combustion engine
* Simple handling thanks to voltage level of 48 V
* Recommended for dinghies and sailboats up to 10 tons.
* Remote steering connector option, comes with remote throttle.
* Intelligent on-board computer and all of the convenience of a Torqeedo electric drive system
* Very robust design – protected from corrosion, saltwater-capable, and completely waterproof (IP67)
* Low-profile design – elegant and modern
* 20 hp gas equivalent
* 48 volt
* Weight 132 lbs.
* Static thrust: 405
* Price $9,000 

NOTE: Compared to the e18, we only get 10kw vs 18kw. And, it would cost us an extra $4,200 and weigh 47 lbs more.


Elco EP-20

* Reliable and durable construction with minimal maintenance required
* Input Power: 8880 kW
* Traditional aluminum casting so replacement parts are readily available
* Water-cooled system that prevents over-heating
* Safety: over-speed protection, overload protection, temperature protection, over-voltage and over-current protection
* Consistent power throughout the speed range
* Brushless PMAC motor that is over 90-percent efficient
* “Get Home Safe” battery alert system
* 20 hp gas equivalent
* 48 volt
* Weight 85 lbs.
* Static thrust: 240 lbs.
* Price $4,800 

NOTE: Compared to the e18, it is the same price and weight, but this motor is only 8.889kw vs 18kw with the e18.

Aquawatt Green Power 15

Aquawatt Green Power E15.5 kW

* Controls: Tiller or single lever control
* Power input/output: 15.5 kW
* Transom height: 20 inch
* Nominal voltage: 48/50 V
* Current from battery max.: 320 Amp
* Weight: 115 lbs.
* Propeller size: 9.25 to 10 inch
* Static Thrust with thrust propeller: 275 lbs.
* Maximum speed: 23 knots
* Price: $8,220 

NOTE: Compared to the e18, we only get 15.5kw vs 18kw and this motor costs $3,420 more and weighs 30 lbs more.

Aquawatt Green Power 22

Aquawatt Green Power 22 kW

* Controls: Tiller or single lever control
* Power input/output: 26kW / 22 kW
* Transom height: 20 inch
* Nominal voltage: 80 V
* Current from battery max.: 320 Amp
* Weight: 139 lbs.
* Propeller size: 9.25
* Static Thrust with thrust propeller: 337 lbs.
* Maximum speed: 26 knots
* Price: $16,732 

NOTE: Compared to the e18, we get 22 kW vs 18 kW, which is wonderful.   However, this motor costs $11,932 more than the e18 and weighs an additional 54 lbs.   For the small amount of extra power, we might consider adding the weight, but the very high price is not worth the extra 4kW of power (though we wish we had it).

Spirit 1.0 Plus

Epropulsion Spirit 1.0 Plus

 * Input Power: 1 kW
* Equivalent Horsepower: 3hp
* Motor Weight: 24 lbs.
* Battery Weight: 19.4 lbs.
* Battery Capacity: 1018 Wh
* Tiller Control
* Run time: 75 min to 4 hours, depending on power usage
* Range: 46.8 nautical miles at 2.3 knots or at full speed, 5.1 knots for 6.4 nautical miles.
* 48 volt (will also run off of our other battery pack).
* Price: $2000 

NOTE: The Spirit 1.0 Plus is a backup motor or for use when we want to beach the dinghy.  In that case, we remove the heavy main motor and battery, shedding about 250 lbs, and go with just this small motor. The Spirit is waterproof, so if we get doused by a wave in the surf, that is no problem.  As a backup to the main motor, the Spirit can also be stored under the rear seat, without its attached battery.  Without the attached battery, it only weighs 24 lbs.  In an emergency, the Spirit can be mounted to the transom and plugged into the same battery bank that the main motor uses.  And though the trip might be slow, we can get back to the mothership to make repairs to the other motor.

Our conclusion on outboards

The choice is fairly clear, based on power of the motor and cost to purchase, the Stealth E18 wins!  However, we also plan to purchase an Epropulsion Spirit 1.0 Plus for trips through the surf and as a backup motor to the E18 to get us home in a pinch.

Here is a wall of text if you want to know more about our choice of outboards:

Based on what we have learned, we plan to go with the Electric Propulsion for our tender. 

Note, if we were running a straight diesel catamaran, instead of a combo diesel/electric, we might make a different choice (gas). But, this electric outboard's batteries can be charged by our existing electrical system on the main boat. There, we will have 5 kw of solar panels, a 10 kw generator, and two 55 hp diesel motors each with a 100 ah at 48 volts alternator.  Between these three systems, we can easily charge the main batteries of the big cat and then use that bank to charge the tender batteries. Therefore, an electric propulsion system on our tender just makes the most sense since we won't have to cart around or buy flammable and (at times) hard to find gasoline.

Gas motors have a farther range on one excursion, but far less excursions possible, let us explain:  

1) Farther range on one excursion: Gas engines can go much further on a tank of fuel than electric can on their batteries.  However, it should be noted that with an electric motor, you may sacrifice speed for distance.  Our tender, on an electric outboard, 7 miles when going 15 mph before depleting the batteries.  However, if we slow down to 7.5 mph, it will takes us a lot further, up to eight times the range.  That's in a perfect world, but it will, no doubt, take us twice as far, 15 miles, and that should always be sufficient to get us back to the main boat.  We never plan to be that far from the main boat.

2) More excursions: Consider this, if you are making multiple runs over many weeks, like when you are in the remote Tuamotus Islands for two months and running a gas powered tender every day, you will eventually run out of gas.  However, with electric propulsion, you will always have sunlight to recharge the batteries, giving you endless supplies of fuel for additional runs.

As for which electric outboard, at this point the Stealth e18 wins, hands down. It is a more powerful motor at 18 kw vs 15.5 kw and far more economical than buying the 22 kW. It is the cheapest at $4,800. It is among the lightest at 84 lbs. It uses a Yamaha lower end, so parts are easily found for the mechanical portion of the system. Tests show it pushes a 1,500 pound boat with two people onto a plane and travels at 15 mph for an hour on the included battery pack of 135ah at 96v, but we are only counting on half that.  However, in theory, it should push a lighter boat, like ours, at 18-20 mph.  Example, if we are four people, each averaging 180 lbs, that's two additional people, so 360 extra lbs. Our boat weights 200 lbs, that makes out boat 612 lbs lighter than their test boat, which still got on a plane.

Now, for safety reasons, we plan to go with LifePO4, a less volatile battery chemistry.  This will add a slight increase to battery weight, (about 80 lbs. more) but they will also keep us far safer from any battery thermal runaway fire.

Our Tender will weigh about 201 lbs. (dry). The propulsion system will weight about 332 lbs (motor [84 lbs.], and 2 batteries that equal 13 kWhs [210 lbs.]). All total, the tender weighs 495 lbs. That is around our maximum weight allowance but will just work on our davit lift.

As for when we have heavier loads, in the tests for the Stealth motor, the boat weighed 1,500 pounds, and they added two people (360 lbs.), that's 1860 lbs. total of boat. cargo and the propulsion system and the boat still did 15 mph on a plane. Our RIB tender only weights 201 lbs. but our batteries are 80 lbs. heavier. Still, that leaves 1,470 pounds which we can still add to the tender before we reach the same weight. That means, we should easily get 4 divers (about 720 lbs.) and dive gear (about 280 lbs.) to a dive site, or we can take six people (1080 lbs.) and even get eight people to shore (1440 lbs.), easily enough, still doing 15 mph on a plane.

Now, their test were done in an ideal situation, on a lake.  Still, if we can get our tender, using electric propulsion, on a plane with six people (1080 lbs.) we will be happy enough.

Dinghy Chaps

What are Dinghy chaps for?

With Hypalon material tubes dinghy's can last about 10 years even in harsh tropic sun conditions. However, that doesn't mean they won't start to look a little dull and worn out over time.

Also, abrasion of lines, or equipment, like dragging scuba gear in and out, can damage the hypalon.

To the rescue come dinghy chaps!  These are a cover you put over the tops of the tubes to protect them from abrasion and UV damage. With Chaps, we hope to extend the life or our dinghy for the entire sixteen year voyage (twice around the planet).

Dinghy Chaps

Where can you get chaps?

Where do you get chaps?
Unfortunately, due to variances, particularly since the mounts and other protrusions on a dinghy are not in exactly the same postilions from boat to boat, even on the same same model,  Therefore, chaps are not mass produced. That means, there are only two ways for us to get Chaps:

1) Hire someone, or a company, to custom make the Chaps by letting them have our dinghy for a time while the Chaps are created.

2) Make them ourselves. This, however, requires us to own a sewing machine capable of swing through multiple layers of thick UV resistant materials or vinyl, or both. 


Boat Wheels

Why do you need boat wheels?

These help you pull a relatively heavy dingy up onto a beach by letting a large portion of the weight be taken up by the wheels mounted to the outside of the dingy transom. They are retracted upwards, when not needed, so they don't drag in the water and extended down when you are about to pull the boat up on to the beach, yet while the tender is still in shallow water.

Here is our choice for boat wheels for our dinghy:


    * The Patented BEACHMASTER Autolock system is light and strong as well as being extremely fast, easy and clean to operate without touching the wheels.
* Beachmaster boat wheels unique over-center locking mechanism compactly encapsulates and locks the wheel against the transom when retracted, then extends in use to form a cross braced frame for high strength in all directions.
* They are designed to be used with outboards in shallow water drive mode so they can be operated close to shore.
* Their very fast and easy to use auto-locking action up and down is an essential feature for launching and landing on surf beaches and fast flowing rivers or when conditions afloat are rough.
* A reassuring click instantly lets you know the wheels are securely locked home in both the up and down positions.
* The retracted wheel is locked and prevented from spinning which provides a secure handhold for safety when working around the outboard.
* The easy to reach non-jamming up-and-away motion of the mechanism enables the wheels to be deployed and retracted in the shallowest possible water. Beachmaster dinghy wheels are not jammed by the buoyancy of the tire or grounding as can be the case with other systems. 

BeachMaster 1

    * The low visual profile and compact retracted position of beachmaster dinghy wheels against the transom allows for normal unhindered operation the boat and outboard motor. They have quiet and smooth running, large, quality, Nylon reinforced, 4 ply rated pneumatic tires (10.5" diameter) with polypropylene rims and nylon bearings for durability in marine environments and Butyl tubes for reliability.
* Being self contained there are no separate parts to stow or lose or pins to fit. They are always instantly ready for action.
* For strength, durability and light weight the wheel system is manufactured with marine grade boat building Aluminum.
* The mounting bracket measures 5.5" x 8" and is effectively designed to distribute the wheel loads to 4 widely spaced bolts. 

BeachMaster 2

Specs on the BeachMasters

    * Recommended for boat lengths up to 12 feet. (3.6 m) [ours: 12'6"]

    * Recommended for outboards up to 15 hp. [ours: 20 hp, but only 85 lbs.]

    * Recommended working load 220 lbs/set. (100 kg) [ours: light version 210 lbs.]

    * Maximum load limit 440 lbs (200 kg)/set on hard smooth surfaces for both fixed and removable mount types. [ours: heavy version 418 lbs]

    * Recommended tire pressures 5psi (soft surfaces) to 15psi (hard surfaces).

    * Mount Weight: 10.5 lbs (4.8 kg) set of two.

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