Gear: Tender

Our Tender Requirements

When it comes to a Tender or Dinghy, everyone is looking for something specifically tailored to their individual needs... and we are no different. Here are our top 10 requirements when looking at a tender or dinghy, the 'car' for your boat.

Low Weight - On a cat, weight always matters. Due to this, we won't be going with a hydraulic platform (as much as we would like to) because most of them cannot lift our dinghy choices! Plus, if we choose a light enough dinghy, we can drag it on shore. 190 pounds or less is our goal.
Open Space - With S/V Lynx carrying a larger crew than a typical boat, we need a tender that can handle our crew.
Durability - The hull has to withstand beaching and the tube material must resist UV light, so we prefer Hypalon.
Hull Shape - Deep V. If we want a smoother ride in rough waves we need a higher dead rise with a deep V hull.
Tube Diameter - The larger the diameter, the better for a drier ride. We don't like getting wet, either from our butts hanging over the edge of a pontoon and getting splashed or due to spray from wave impacts dousing our entire bodies on our way to shore for a nice dinner. We are looking for 18" tubes.
Length - This matters because we have to fit this between our cat hulls, and 13' 9" is about the maximum width without encroaching on the sugar scoops. Therefore, we need a dinghy length of 13' or less. Ideally, the length would be about 12'.
Load capacity - We are scuba divers, so we need a boat that will handle all our gear and multiple divers and still get on a plain, 1500 pounds of LCC is our target.
Double Floor- We like our feet and items to stay dry, so a double floor keeps more water in the boat away from where your feet are standing.
Double Storage Lockers in the bow: This is so that we can put one of our batteries in the large compartment, and our anchor and chain in the other smaller one.
Price - Money is not unlimited, so this is a serious factor we have to consider. Our budget is about $6,000

Hull Types

When it comes to hulls on a Tender or Dinghy, there are three options, Carbon Fiber, Fiberglass or Aluminum. Here are our thoughts on which is the best hull material for our needs. We have five areas of comparison:

WEIGHT - First off, many claim that aluminum RIBs are lighter than fiberglass... and we have found this to be generally true. However, carbon fiber is even lighter. Therefore, all the RIBS on our list of contenders have aluminum or carbon fiber hulls.
DURABILITY - Next up is durability. If you plan on running your tender up onto shores covered with rocks, then the aluminum hull is your best bet as it is more scratch resistant and will tend to dent rather than fracture. However, there have been issues of aluminum hull welds cracking over time with the flexing of the boat, where fiberglass is more forgiving in this area and carbon fiber even far stronger Also, even though aluminum hulls are tougher against scratches, if you do get a scratch in your fiberglass or carbon fiber boat, you can easily mix up some epoxy and do a repair. Fixing any serious issue with an aluminum hull is far more difficult.
CORROSION - This is more likely on an aluminum hull. You can have one powder coated or painted, but then you risk bubbling of the paint. Some owners have reported this issue while others have no problems at all. Many people suggest a bare aluminum hull as the best bet. However, as one RIB maker states on their website, "Aluminum requires very little maintenance other than keeping salt off to protect the hull from corrosion." I guess the issue here is that we are going to be in salt water... constantly. Fiberglass and carbon fiber would have less issues with corrosion.
SHAPE - Fiberglass and carbon fiber boats can have a more polished and contoured hulls since they can be made in any shape where Aluminum has some limitations and tend to stick to a somewhat flat sided shape, with small ridges (see pics, below - fiberglass left, aluminum right).
NOISE -Aluminum hulls are nosier, where fiberglass or carbon fiber are easier on the ears.

Fiberglass or Carbon

Aluminum

Our Conclusion on Hull Material

Though fiberglass hulls seem to have a lot going for them, in the end, we prefer the better durability of the aluminum hulls for beaching. Carbon fiber is a lot stronger than fiberglass, and more scratch resistant, so we did not rule out that option. Therefore, in the comparisons (below) all of the contenders have aluminum or carbon fiber hulls.

Comparisons of Models

Inmar, Model 365R-AL

Next is the 12' inflatable from Inmar. She is a light weight boat at 185 pounds Hypalon even though she has twin decks and a deep V hull. This boat is listed as 6 passengers, which is less than we would like, but has a 1525 pound load carrying capacity, so we could squeeze in a couple more! Like our three top contenders, the 365R-AL has 18" tubes, so that's a big plus. The max hp for the outboard is 30 hp, so that works for our 25 hp outboard.

In features, the 365R-AL compares well against the ZAR Mini and North Atlantic and comes in at a good price of only $5,595, plus tax and transport equals $6364.86 total. Because the dealer is fairly local, there are no delivery costs to us. That makes the 365R-AL the best priced boat we are considering if you take shipping and tax into account.

Standard Features:
Non-skid aluminum hull with deep "V", bow locker (fuel tank space with straps), double wall floor, aluminum outboard mounting plate, self bailer, leafield valves, over inflation valve, molded handles, heavy duty full length rubstrake, (3) davit lifting points, bow tow rings, oar locks with oars, removable rowing seat, foot pump with gauge, repair kit.

Her only real negatives are that she is only 12' long, losing six inches to the Zar and N. Atlantic, and Inmar isn't a world wide boat distributor, like Highfield or ZAR, hence, the lower price. Still, there are advantages to the 12' length, as it will be an easier fit between our sugar scoops.

UPDATE: We have decided! We ordered our 365R-AL!

Zar Mini Rib, Model 13 HDL

The ZAR Mini is a twin deck aluminum hull boat with a double bow locker. She is 12'6" long, has a tube diameter of 18" and weights in at 201 lbs. She is rated for seven passengers, and has a payload of 1521 lbs. These are all excellent numbers for S/V Lynx!

Her main RIB competitors will be the North Atlantic and Inmar 365R-AL. It isn't the lightest boat on our list, in fact, the ZAR loses in weight to the Cadet by 38 pounds and the OC400 by 54 pounds. And compared to the other top contender, the Mini is about 16 pounds heavier than the Inmar boat.

Her length is six inches longer than the Inmar, giving her a bit more interior space and she is 5" wider, at 6'5". The width is desirable but the added length makes her harder to fit between our sugar scoops. Finally, by price, she costs $10,700 (with shipping and tax include). That is significantly more than the final price of the Inmar.

It was a close call between the Zar Mini 13, but we went with the Inmar 365R-AL due to a far better price and a little weight savings.

North Atlantic, Model ALA380L

Next is the 12' 8" inflatable from North Atlantic. She is a light weight boat at 175 pounds in PVC even though she has twin decks and a deep V hull. That weight will to up round 20 pounds once we switch to Hypalon material for the tubes. This boat is listed as a 6 passenger boat, but has a 1550 pound load carrying capacity, even better than the Zar and around the same as the Inmar.

Like those boats, the ALA380L has 18" tubes, so that's a big plus. The max hp for the outboard is 30 hp, so that works for our electric 24 hp outboard (18 kw). The ALA380L is likely about the same weight as the Mini in Hypalon, but loses to the Inmar.

In features, the ALA380L compares well against the ZAR Mini and Inmar 365R-AL with the exceptions of only having a single locker up front instead of dual lockers like the other two top contenders and being 12'8" which is a bit long for our desires.

Also, like the Inmar, the North Atlantic isn't a major boat name like Highfield or ZAR, who both have worldwide distributors. Finally, the boat must be shipped from Maine to us in California. That will add another $1400 to the price.

So, the total price of $6324. That is about the same price as the Inmar 365R-AL. However, with the Inmar we get to purchase locally and get our dual front lockers, and our preferred length, so that is the clear choice.

Highfield, Model CL 380

Like her smaller sister, the CL360 (see next entry), she is still a light boat at 183 lbs, but 8" longer than the CL360. The beam is 2" wider than her sister boat, coming in at 5'8" and the weight capacity is more at 1404 lbs. The hull is the same with a dead rise of 15 degrees with a moderate V hull. And, the maximum size motor is also 30 hp.

The price is a bit higher than the three top contenders since the CL 380 runs $7,214, without shipping and tax included, so it will likely be quite a bit more.

Still, this boat was one of the top contenders, in fourth place.

Offshore Cruising Tenders: OC400
This is an all carbon fiber, hard shell, boat. She will plane faster, but may have a slightly harder ride in heavy seas. Unfortunately, she comes with a single floor, so she will be wetter ride unless you sponge out al the water, immediately. The OC400 has a deeper V than other Offshore Cruising models, so that will help.

Most importantly, the OC400 is lighter than any of our other contenders, and 54 pounds less than our top choice of RIB! This carbon fiber hull should last as long as we own the boat and have good resale value. But a large negative is the initial cost, which is more than twice as much as the Zar Mini or Inmar. At $14,000, the high price was the main factor where we decided to go with the Inmar RIB.

Overall length (m/ft): 3.91 / 12.82ft
Overall width (m/ft): 1.72 / 5.64ft
Bow top side height (m/ft): 0.79 / 2.59ft
Stern height (m/ft): 0.61/2ft
Overall bow height: 0.60 / 1.11ft
Carbon hull weight is 67kg (147.7 Pounds)
Max recommended hp: 20hp
Short Shaft
Preliminary Max load 602kg (1327.18 pounds)

Point Comparison Chart

We assigned a point value to each feature based on their importance to us. This allows us to get a quick comparison of the tenders we are interested in possibly buying. Don't forget to scroll to the right to see more of the chart, including the final totals.

Search:

Tenders	Weight	Pts	People	Pts	Hull	Pts	Tubes	Pts	Length	Pts	LCC	Pts	Price	Pts	Lasts	Pts	Total
Zar Mini 13	201	16	7	5	Deep-V	7	18"	12	12'6"	7	1512	8	$10,600*	10	10 yrs	4	64
ALA380L	195	16	6	4	Deep-V	7	18"	12	12'8"	5	1550	8	$6,324*	16	10 yrs	4	69
HF_CL380	183	17	7	5	Modr._V	5	17"	8	12'6"	7	1404	7	$7,214	14	10 yrs	4	63
Inmar365R	185	17	6	4	Modr._V	7	18"	12	12'	6	1525	8	$6,365	16	10 yrs	4	74
OC400	147	21	6	4	Shal._V	3	Hard	12	12'10"	5	1327	5	$14,000	7	30yrs	21	66

Showing entries (filtered from total entries)
NOTE: Prices with an asterisk (*) already have shipping, tax, and any other fees to California added, all other prices will be higher than indicated once those are added.

Our Conclusion on Tenders

Our top desires are low weight, double floor, large tubes, and 12' length. The total price also figures in heavily as well. So, looking at those factors, the Zar Mini RIB 13 and the Inmar 356R-AL were our top contenders.

They are very similar in features, with the main differences being that the Zar is 6" wider, and 6" longer, while the Inmar is 16 pounds lighter and $4,300 less expensive! (That was a big one).

Therefor, the Inmar 365R-AL came in as our #1 boat, 5 points ahead of the North Atlantic, 8 points ahead of the OC, and 10 points ahead of the Zar.

We will pare a 25 hp motor 4 Stroke gas outboard and have a Spirit 1.0 Evo as a backup motor (see below). As for which outboard we will use on our tender, that's up next.

Though we like the North Atlantic, OC, and Zar boats, the Inmar won out on a combination of price, weight, and having all our desired features, so that is the boat we ordered.
Sea trials and videos to follow early in 2023.

Dinghy Motors

The first choices to make are a gas, electric, or jet.

There are advantages and disadvantages to these three options, as follows:

Advantages

Gas outboards - They can have higher horsepower as we are limited by the 48v battery voltage with electric outboards. They have greater range on a single excursion since gas is more energy dense than batteries. They also weigh 87 pounds less if you count the engine and gas vs an electric motor and batteries. Most importantly, they are far less expensive to purchase than electric outboards and their batteries.
Electric outboards - They require no gas stored on the tender or main boat and have endless numbers of excursions due to available solar recharging on the main boat. They make no fumes and are quieter. They start without a pull cord, and do so, every time. They require no warm up time before heading out They can be lighter on the stern of the tender (battery weight can be moved forward). There is less weight on the main boat since we don't have to store flammable gasoline.
Electric Jet - We only have one option here, and it is a new one. The two big advantages are no propeller to break and nothing sticks down, making your boat shallower draft, with no need to raise (tilt) an engine.

Disadvantages

Gas outboards - They can have trouble starting. They require more maintenance, They have flammable fuel, which require trips to find gas to refill. Gas outboards have a limited number of excursions before running out of fuel. And, if you want to extend the number of excursions, they require extra, flammable, fuel to be stored on your main boat.
Electric outboards - With the batteries, they are heavier by 87 pounds. They are limited in range on a single excursion if you desire to 'go fast' (slowing down extends range significantly). The batteries are either flammable NMC or very large and heavy LifePO4 at 96v (a dangerous voltage to deal with, especially out on water!) They are underpowered for the weight. High Price! If you add the batteries, they are far more expensive than gas outboards by about $4,200.
Electric Jet - At 19hp, it has less horsepower than a gas (25hp) or electric (24hp, 96v) outboards. With the batteries, they are heavier than the gas option. They have limited range on a single excursion if you desire to 'go fast' (slowing down extends range significantly). Unfortunately, they are far more expensive at $14,743 (jet plus proprietary batteries) vs $8,500 for the electric outboard and our batteries, or just $4,300 for the gas outboard. Finally, the mounting is permanent, so we cannot remove the jet from the tender if we want to add a Spirit 1.0 Evo for beaching in surf and dragging up the beach.

Our choice between Gas, Electric Outboard, or Electric Jet

Originally, we decided to buy two electric outboards (one with more horsepower for planing and long distance runs and the other for short slow trips to shore). Back then, we thought that an 18kw electric outboard would be our best option.

But... we made a BIG and costly mistake in purchasing an e18. It turns out that the Stealth e18 we purchased is woefully underpowered if you want a light RIB that planes. It only pushes our 185 lb. RIB at 7 mph and doesn't come close to planing. Stealth ePropulsion claimed this motor would pull 185 amps (8,880 watts at 48v), but it only pulls 58 amps, giving us only a 1 mph greater speed than the little ePropulsion Spirit 1.0 Evo, which has a paltry 1 kw motor compared to the 18 kw claimed for the e18.

So, what does that mean for our tender outboard? Well, it means we lost about $6,500 buying a Stealth e18, which will have to sell to someone who doesn't need a small boat to plane. The good news is that we modified the terrible design of the Steath e18 and incorporated all the electronics under the cowl. Whoever buys this outboard get a nicer, compact, electric outboard configuration.

But for us, we have to fall back on our second choice, which is a standard 4 stroke, gas outboard for the faster trips and just live with the issues that come with a gas engine (starting and warming up a gas engine, procuring fuel, storing a extra flammable fuel on the main boat, smelling fumes, doing more maintenance, etc.).

We will choose a gas outboard over the electric jet option since it is too expensive while offering less horsepower, but even if we were willing to spend the money, the fact that we cannot remove it easily to change to a smaller outboard ruled it out.

Below are the two gas outboards we are considering to replace the e18

Yamaha F25

Engine Type: Yamaha F25LWHC Four Stroke
Horsepower: 25 hp
Cylinders: 2 cyl
Shaft Length: 20"
Steering: Tiller
Starter: Electric + Manual
Weight: 137 lbs
Full Throttle Range: 5000 - 6000 rpm
Displacement: 432cc
Induction System: EFI
Warranty: 3 years

Yamaha's 432-cc 25-hp portable outboard sports a new, streamlined, portable design and class-leading power-to-weight. In fact, it's the lightest 25-hp outboard on the water—two-stroke or four-stroke. While its streamlined design is 25 percent lighter, it still packs exciting features like battery-less EFI. Pull-start models can now take advantage of this feature, plus the system is designed with an automatic decompression device to require even less effort for manual starting.

Tohatsu MFS25

Maximum output: 25HP (18.4 KW)
Maximum operation range: 5000-6000 rpm
Fuel Consumption at W.O.T: 8.8 L/Hr
Number of cylinder: 3c
Starting System: Manual
Ignition timing: Electronically Advanced
Alternator output: 12V, 180W 15A
Speed control: Remote Control or Twist Grip
Gear reduction ratio: 1.92
Emission compliance: EU & CARB 3-Star
Advanced cross-flow induction
Canister style oil filter for easy replacement
Larger capacity oil reservoir
Tuned intake system for crisp takeoffs
Ultra Low emission, EPA and CARB approved
5 Year limited warranty
Electronic fuel injection
The boating industry's first battery-free, manual start EFI 4-stroke
Digital CD ignition system for quicker starts
Adjustable steering friction and trim tab for reducing steering effort
Front mounted shift lever for easier operations

"The all new MFS25/30D model is the lightest 3-cylinder in its class. The revolutionary design allowed for a dramatic weight reduction without sacrificing high performance levels.
Unique to the MFS25/30D, Tohatsu has redesigned the tiller handle to include a stop switch, a four-step trolling speed control system starting at 750 RPM, forward - neutral - reverse shifter, and throttle friction adjustment. Certain models also include electric start button and power trim and tilt switch. Tohatsu's multi-function tiller handle is also available for multiple model options. The multi-function tiller handle is equipped with 3-position height adjustment with optional accessory to provide an additional 4-position height adjustment. Both standard and multi-function tiller handles have trolling speed control feature.

Below are the two electric outboard options we originally purchased,

(though we are now selling our Stealth e18, for reasons, see below)

Stealth E18KW (claimed specs, but not real specs)

* 18 kW continuous power (but at 96v, at 48v it only gives us 9 kw, but we did not get that in reality)
* 23 hp gas equivalent (11.84hp at 48v, but we got closer to only 4.144 hp in real testing)
* 48 - 96 volts
* Weight 84 lbs. (actually more like100 lbs with control box)
* Speeds up to around 15 mph for at least an hour (actual maximum speed was only 6.5 mph).
* Yamaha lower leg for easy part replacement.
* Water cooled
* Motor price: $5,795 ($6,484 with shipping from Texas to California).

We did not choose to buy the Stealth Electric Outboards NMC batteries due to their more volatile chemistry. Instead, we went with cheaper and safer DIY LifePO4 batteries we designed. The two LifePO4 batteries, all total, they cost us about $3,000, which is around $2,500 less than the Stealth package (motor plus battery).
The Stealth E18KW weighs 100 pounds with control box plus our 230ah 48v LifePO4 safer set of two LifePO4 batteries weigh 100 pounds each.

Sea Trials and the problems with this outboard:
The outboard can use 48v so we tested with two of our 24v batteries put in series to get to 48v. Those plus the motor and tender weigh 495 pounds.
Sea trials for this outboard showed it to be a complete rip-off. Stealth Electric Outboards claims 185 amp max draw and 11.84 hp, when we actually got 58 amp max draw and 4.144 hp. This outboard does not give anywhere near what the company claims in horsepower so it is useless for out needs and will have to be sold to someone who does not need a boat to plane. There are other issues with the outboard. it comes with a massive, separate control box, that weighs quite a bit and, worse, has seven lines that attach to the outboard (two electric control lines, three battery cables, and two water cooling lines). They don't include this when they are telling you the weight of their outboard. What a mess! We had to modify the outboard ourselves to put the controller and electronics inside the cowl so we could get rid of five of those lines and the separate control box. Secondly, Stealth Electric Outboards ship this electric motor with the original prop for a Yamaha gas outboard! This prop is not properly pitched for an electric outboard, and wastes what little thrust you get from this underperforming motor. All-in-all, this was a horrible mistake on our part going with Steath Electric Outboards.

UPDATE: We have ordered the e18. Sea trials and videos to begin in early in, 2023.
UPDATE 2: We received our e18 and ran into an issue. Our tender is not huge for a sailboat, and the control box that they include with the motor has seven lines coming from the motor to that box. Two wired connections, three 2 AWG battery cables, and 2 waterlines (for water cooling the control box). This is not great for our needs. However, we have a solution. We relocated everything from the separate control box and put it all under the engine cowling. Of course, it didn't fit, as configured. Therefore, we extended the engine cowling up about 5" higher to make room. We released a Youtube video on how we made this modification, Now, the outboard only has one Anderson connector to plug it into the main boat for charging.
UPDATE 3: Our sea trials showed this outboard to only motoring us at 6.5 mph, which is woefully underpowered for our RIB when using 48v batteries. We don't want to change to 96v batteries, so we will be moving to a gas outboard.

Zero Jet

* Controls: Tiller
* Power input/output: 14kW / (19 hp)
* Nominal voltage: 48 V
* Weight: 85 lbs.
* Jet propulsion
* Price: $7,371.54 jet plus $7,371.54 proprietary battery (quoted NZD prices converted to USD).

The ZeroJet at 14 kW seems underpowered However, on the positive side, ZeroJet is a jet, so no propeller to worry about!

Zerojet's website also claims they can build higher power systems, on request. However, after contacting them, currently this turns out not to be true so they remain less powerful. Unfortunately, a total price of $14,743 compared to a gas outboard at $3,840 makes the Zerojet option too expensive, $9,684 more while being less powerful. The final straw is that it cannot be removed from the tender for beach landings as it is a permanent mount.

Epropulsion Spirit 1.0 Evo (we are keeping this outboard)

* Input Power: 1 kW
* Equivalent Horsepower: 3hp
* Motor Weight: 24 lbs.
* Battery Weight: 19.4 lbs.
* Battery Capacity: 1018 Wh
* Tiller Control
* Run time: 75 min to 4 hours, depending on power usage
* Range: 46.8 nautical miles at 2.3 knots or at full speed, 5.1 knots for 6.4 nautical miles.
* 48 volt (will also run off of our other battery pack).
* Price: $2500

NOTE: The Spirit 1.0 Evo is for short trips where we don't need speed and will also be used when we want to beach the dinghy. In that case, we remove the bigger main outboard, shedding about 144 pounds, and go with just this small electric motor. The Spirit is waterproof, so if we get doused by a wave in the surf, that is no problem. As a backup to the main gas outboard, the Spirit can also be brought on board the tender. In an emergency, the Spirit can get us back to the mothership to make repairs to the bigger tender motor. The trip might be slow at 5 knots, but slow is better than stranded.

We also have two batteries for extending the range to 150 minutes at full throttle (2.5 hours or a range of 12.8 miles).

There is a new feature with the Evo model, they have added hydrogeneration. Of course, this is a small amount of regeneration; at maximum, we will be getting around 300 - 330 watts an hour. Still, if we mount this to a sugar scoop while on passage it will send around 150 amps and be able to recharge its own battery.
Update: We have placed our order for our Spirit 1.0 Evo with sea trials and videos to begin in early 2023.

Our conclusion on tender motors

Based on our bad experience with our Stealth Electric e18 Outboard we have no other choice but to switch to a 25 hp, 4 stroke gas outboard. We are happy with our purchase of the ePropulsion Spirit 1.0 Evo for trips through the surf and as a backup outboard to the gas outboard.

Dinghy Chaps

What are Dinghy chaps for?

Chaps
With Hypalon material tubes dinghy's can last about 10 years even in harsh tropic sun conditions. However, that doesn't mean they won't start to look a little dull and worn out over time.

Also, abrasion from lines or other things, like dragging scuba gear in and out, can damage the hypalon.

To the rescue come dinghy chaps! These are a cover you put over the tops of the tubes to protect them from abrasion and UV damage. With Chaps, we hope to extend the life or our dinghy for the entire double circumnavigation.

Where can you get chaps?

Where do you get chaps?
Unfortunately, due to variances in the locations of mounts and other protrusions, dinghies are not exactly the same. Therefore, chaps are not mass produced. That leaves two ways for us to get Chaps:

1) Hire someone, or a company, to custom make the Chaps by letting them have our dinghy for a time while the Chaps are created. This typically costs $2,000 or more!

2) Make them ourselves. Though far less expensive, this option does require us to own a sewing machine capable of sewing through multiple layers of thick UV resistant materials. However, we already plan to purchase such a machine for sail repairs and other needs. So, now it is just down to the knowledge and labor of sewing these chaps. Fortunately, there are 'how to' videos available, so that covers the knowledge, so we just need to set aside the time. Fortunately, two of our crew members are good at sewing!

Boat Wheels

Why do you need boat wheels?

These help you pull a relatively heavy dingy up onto a beach by letting wheels take up a large portion of the weight. The wheels are mounted to the outside of the dingy transom. When not in use, they can be retracted upwards so that they don't drag in the water. When approaching shore, the wheels can be extended down so that you are ready to pull the boat up on to the beach.

Here is our choice for boat wheels for our dinghy:

BeachMaster

* The Patented BEACHMASTER Autolock system is light and strong as well as being extremely fast, easy and clean, and may be operated without touching the wheels.
* Beachmaster boat wheels unique over-center locking mechanism compactly encapsulates and locks the wheel against the transom when retracted, then extends in use to form a cross braced frame for high strength in all directions.
* They are designed to be used with outboards in shallow water drive mode so they can be operated close to shore.
* Their very fast and easy to use auto-locking action up and down is an essential feature for launching and landing on surf beaches and fast flowing rivers or when conditions afloat are rough.
* A reassuring click instantly lets you know the wheels are securely locked home in both the up and down positions.
* The retracted wheel is locked and prevented from spinning which provides a secure handhold for safety when working around the outboard.
* The easy to reach non-jamming up-and-away motion of the mechanism enables the wheels to be deployed and retracted in the shallowest possible water. Beachmaster dinghy wheels are not jammed by the buoyancy of the tire or grounding as can be the case with other systems.

* The low visual profile and compact retracted position of beachmaster dinghy wheels against the transom allows for normal unhindered operation the boat and outboard motor. The wheels are quiet and smooth running and are large, quality, Nylon reinforced, 4 ply rated pneumatic tires (10.5" diameter) with polypropylene rims and nylon bearings for durability in marine environments, using Butyl tubes for reliability.
* Being self contained there are no separate parts to stow or lose or pins to fit. They are always instantly ready for action.
* For strength, durability and light weight the wheel system is manufactured with marine grade boat building Aluminum.
* The mounting bracket measures 5.5" x 8" and is effectively designed to distribute the wheel loads to 4 widely spaced bolts.

Specs on the BeachMasters

* Recommended for boat lengths up to 12 feet. (3.6 m) [ours: exactly 12']

* Recommended for gas outboards up to 15 hp which weigh about 85 pounds. Our electric outboard is: 20 hp, but it only weighs 85 pounds, but more of the time we are beaching the boat we will be using our 3 hp, 43.4 ePropulsoin Spirit 1.0 Evo!

* Maximum load limit 440 lbs (200 kg)/set on hard smooth surfaces for both fixed and removable mount types. Our heavy version of the dinghy weighs: 480 pounds (with full tank of gas), but we would rarely, if ever, be on the hard with our dinghy in this heavy configuration. Our light version weighs 244 pounds.

* Recommended tire pressures 5psi (soft surfaces) to 15psi (hard surfaces).

* Mount Weight: 10.5 pounds (4.8 kg) per set of two.

Conclusion on Tender Wheels

We looked at all the options for wheels to beach our RIB and the clear choice for quality and function are the Beachmaster wheels. Their is even an option for a removable mount, which we went with since it offers us some options in configuration. We posted a video about mounting the wheels and will put a review video of the Beachmaster Wheels once we get to sea trials early in 2023.

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